Table of Contents

1. Diesel Interior Heaters
2. Carbon Monoxide
3. Direct Oxygen Deprivation
4. Heating in Confined Spaces
5. The Diesel-Powered Heater
6. The Webasto Heater
7. The Webasto Heater in Action

Diesel Interior Heaters

How to heat a motorhome is an ongoing source of enquiry, particularly with a CMCA Rally in Tasmania in many people’s plans. Curiously, not a great deal appears to have been written about this subject and, as a result, many turn to Internet forums for advice.

These forums can be wonderful sources of information, but sometimes suggestions are made that are downright dangerous. Caravan and motorhome heating is a sadly common example.

Time after time one encounters potentially lethal advice. Here are a few examples: heat your vehicle by inverting a clay flowerpot or steel saucepan over an open gas ring; turn the gas oven on with the door left open; use a charcoal-burning cooking pot as a space heater. All are extremely dangerous – especially the last.

Heating a small enclosed space by burning something presents two main dangers. The first and most serious is carbon monoxide poisoning. Carbon monoxide is a colourless and odourless gas (slightly lighter than air). It is formed whenever any carbon-based substance (which is most substances) is burned with an inadequate supply of air. Even when there is adequate air, carbon monoxide is produced if the burning reaction is only partly complete.

Carbon Monoxide

Even in small amounts, carbon monoxide is deadly to all warm-blooded animals. A 0.2% concentration can kill within 30 minutes. I can find no local data, but 300 Americans are killed and 10,000 need major medical treatment [because of carbon monoxide poisoning) each year. A high proportion of those are campers, 'travel trailer' and motorhome users.

Carbon monoxide kills like this. Haemoglobin in the blood normally transports all-essential oxygen throughout the body. Unfortunately haemoglobin is massively addicted to picking up carbon monoxide. If there's any around, haemoglobin will grab 250 parts of carbon monoxide for every one part of oxygen. This rapidly deprives the brain and everything else of that vital oxygen.

There are only minor indications: headache, nausea, fatigue - and then unconsciousness. If you were asleep at the time, the odds are against your ever waking up again. Carbon monoxide is rightly called the 'silent killer'.

Direct Oxygen Deprivation

The second hazard is direct oxygen deprivation. Just by breathing we contaminate the air. We take in about a half a cubic metre of air every hour and convert about 4% of that into carbon dioxide. As a result the exhaled carbon dioxide level rises and the available oxygen level falls. The latter can however drop from its normal 21% or so, to as low as 15% before symptoms (such as fatigue) set in. Whilst rarely, if ever, a problem in a home, oxygen deprivation through this cause can be serious in an unventilated space - heated or otherwise. This was tragically demonstrated in England when a number of 'illegal' migrants were asphyxiated inside a sealed truck.

Heating in Confined Spaces

It is essential to keep the potential for danger in mind when planning a heating system for a caravan or motorhome. In Australia at least, our Gas Installation Code legally closes the door against the worst offenders (but not against foolish Internet advice). "Where a [gas] air heating appliance is installed in a confined space the circulating air shall be ducted and be separated from air for combustion and draught diverter dilution’. This effectively rules out mostly anything run from gas – including catalytic heaters.

Yet despite constant mortalities, America seems less concerned. There, it is legal to use catalytic heaters (at least in most States). Historically, the British too had a seemingly cavalier approach to heating. Many British-made caravans were fitted with coal and even charcoal burning stoves (some older readers may remember the coal and charcoal burning Piver stoves that were installed).

Electrical heating is the simplest, safest and cheapest form of heating, but it necessitates a 240-volt mains supply. But for heating away from the 240-volt umbilical cord, there are few heating devices more effective and practical than the diesel powered units that are rapidly gaining favour in caravans and motorhomes worldwide.

The Diesel-Powered Heater

These devices draw air from outside into a tiny sealed furnace that can be housed almost anywhere in the vehicle. Diesel oil is injected and ignited in this furnace. The ‘burnt’ air is then expelled to atmosphere. Air within the area to be heated is blown across the outer skin of the furnace and ducted to wherever desired. The burning gas is thus totally sealed from the air that is heated within the vehicle.

My first experience with this technology was considerably less than happy! I imported a Finnish diesel-powered unit that worked fine for two or so weeks. But thereafter it would generate no heat – only huge volumes of evil-smelling cold and wet grey/white ‘smoke’. For reasons that are still unclear, the thing had a hugely complex computer control system. The whole and quite large unit proved totally unfixable without being returned to its maker on the other side of the world. I fought it over three or so years – and finally gave up. (The unit was briefly described, but fortunately not recommended, in the first edition of ‘The Campervan and Motorhome Book’. The mention was deleted in editions thereafter).

I next became aware of the Eberspacher range of diesel heaters. These are highly respected in Europe, the USA and Canada, but do not seem to be widely promoted in our market. Few Australian caravan, campervan and motorhome owners seem aware of them. I was wary of buying a product that lacked widespread distribution and decided to give this one a miss. Then, whilst at the Casino Rally I was intrigued to see Webasto’s generally similar unit installed and working in a demonstration motorhome.

The Webasto Heater

The smallest unit in the Webasto range is the size and weight of a large can of soup – and weighs little more. It is far simpler and hugely more rugged than the unfortunate Finnish device, and is very much better made (quite stunning in fact!). This unit produces ample heat, even for big motorhomes.

Learning of my previous experiences, Webasto’s Roger Phair kindly offered to make one available to me for long-term evaluation – probably with some trepidation as I describe things as I find them. But he need have no qualms!

The main heater unit is best floor mounted as both the intake and exhaust are on its underside. A separate very small electrically-driven pump, hose and filter may be connected to a separate diesel tank – or can be tapped into the main vehicle tank (as we did with the OKA). A small electric control panel may be mounted wherever convenient within the vehicle.

The hot air vent can be taken wherever desired via approximately 50 mm flexible hose. We made up a small duct from a couple of adjustable vents left over from the OKA’s coach beginnings.

Whilst we elected to evaluate the Webasto air heater, the company (as with Eberspacher) also have a water heating version that feeds radiators throughout the vehicle. Via an additional heat exchanger (calorifier) it can also supply hot water on demand.

The Webasto Heater in Action

Where we live on the Indian Ocean north of Broome, winter is not known for being cold. But inland it’s a different matter entirely. There, temperatures can drop quickly below freezing after sun-down. But even then, on its lowest heat setting, the Webasto keeps the OKA’s interior at a comfortable (for us) 27 degrees whilst using about a fifth of a litre of diesel an hour.

Unsilenced, the exhaust can be a trifle intrusive to those outside the vehicle. It would not be noticed in most situations, but a few users report that neighbouring campers have asked that the unit be turned off at night. A quick check with Webasto however produced (an optional) tiny and very effective silencer (Derringer would be proud of it!).

Speaking of ‘comfortable temperature’ the US ASHRAE 55:74 standard defines it as ‘that condition of mind which expresses satisfaction with the thermal environment’. That self-referencing definition is praised in associated academic comment as being a ‘model of clarity’. I’d hate to see their example of an unclear one!

It’s too early to advise on longevity, excepting to note that the Webasto unit is very ruggedly made and, as it is designed for much colder and more generally arduous American and European winters, it should have an even longer life in our milder Antipodean climate.

The product is already being offered as an optional extra by at least one leading Australian caravan maker.

For further information see http://www.webasto.com.au/

Further information regarding associated matters can be found in the author’s associated books, particularly ‘Motorhome Electrics – and Caravans Too!’; and ‘The Campervan & Motorhome Book’

Copyright 2002-2007  All Rights Reserved
Collyn Rivers Caravan and Motorhome Books www.caravanandmotorhomebooks.com
Email collyn@caravanandmotorhomebooks.com

Navigator, Translator, Entertainer, Tour Guide, Garmin’s nüvi™ 310 is one versatile little GPS.

Configured exclusively for Australia, this pocket-sized Personal Travel Assistant now comes with hands-free Bluetooth® wireless technology and Text to Speech voice guidance in addition to the popular features offered in the nüvi 300 — making it the go-anywhere travel companion.

The nüvi 310 also features the very latest super-sensitive SiRF Star III chipset and high brightness TFT display and comes complete with a vehicle suction-cup mount and 12-24 Volt cigarette lighter adaptor for immediate operation right out of the box. A USB interface cable allows connection to a PC for transferring favourite locations, MP3s, JPEG photos and Custom POIs (see further details below).

Navigate with Ease

The nüvi 310 comes preprogrammed with Australian City Navigator map data, and includes automatic routing, 2D or 3D map perspective, and a fingertip touch screen interface — making navigation easy. Approximately 170 MB of additional internal memory is available for storage of supplemental maps, MP3′s and audio books. Additional maps, MP3′s, JPEGs and audio books can be loaded to a removeable SD memory card (available separately).

Text to Speech

In addition to the turn-by-turn voice prompted navigation available in other StreetPilot models, the nüvi 310′s text-to-speech functionality allows the unit to audibly announce the name of upcoming streets, Favourites and points of interest (POIs), letting drivers keep their eyes on the road while navigating through busy traffic.

Two user selectable Australian voices are included — Karen (female) and Lee (male).

Place hands-free calls with Bluetooth wireless technology

The nüvi 310 integrates wireless technology with a microphone and speaker that lets you make hands-free mobile phone calls. Simply dial numbers with the nüvi’s touch screen keypad or your phones voice dialling feature to make a call on a compatible Bluetooth phone. To answer calls, just tap nüvi’s screen and speak directly into its built in microphone.

In addition, easily look-up and dial numbers from your personalized phone book or from your phone’s call history log. Don’t know the phone number for your destination? Simply find and dial it from nüvi’s extensive points of interest database — including hotels, restaurants, stores, and attractions.

Vehicle Icons and Custom POIs

The Nuvi 310 supports configurable vehicle icons — fun, customized car-shaped icons in a variety of colors that show your position on the map.

The nüvi also accepts customized points of interest (POIs) providing alerts for locations such as school zones and safety cameras using Garmin’s POI Loader.

Enjoy Travel Kit full of entertainment and useful tools

Navigation is just the beginning. The nüvi includes many “must have” entertainment and travel tools including MP3 player, audio book player, JPEG picture viewer, travel alarm, currency converters, and more. In addition, optional software packages such as the Language Guide™ and Travel Guides™ can be added for language and content support in various countries around the world.

Customize with Optional Software

Optional software available on plug-in SD cards, lets you instantly add new features to your nüvi — without connecting to your computer.

• Language Guide — contains five bilingual dictionaries and a multilingual word bank and phrase bank that support nine languages and dialects. Even get a spoken pronunciation of each word or phrase.
• Travel Guide — gives you helpful and thorough reviews and recommendations for restaurants, hotels, shopping, nightlife, sporting events and tourist attractions. Travel Guide for Europe currently available for purchase. Travel Guide for United States coming soon.
• Savers Guide™ — a “geo-coded” coupon book that notifies you of nearby discounts on restaurants, hotels, shopping, and more at thousands of participating Entertainment® businesses throughout North America.
• Pre-programmed mapping — taking a trip overseas? Get additional mapping for the USA, Europe and New Zealand on SD card. City Navigatior Australia also available for overseas visitors travelling to Australia. Simply purchase and plug in.

Features

• Receiver: high-sensitivity WAAS-capable GPS receiver by SiRF
• Display: 7.1 cm W x 5.3 cm H (8.9 cm diag.), 320 x 240 pixels; bright, TFT display, 64K colours, with white backlight and touch screen
• Unit dimensions: 98.3 mm W x 73.9 mm H x 22.1 mm D
• Weight: 144.6 grams
• Battery: built-in lithium ion battery provides 4-8 hours of battery life depending on use
• Preloaded WhereIs™ maps for all of Australia
• Bluetooth® wireless technology for hands free mobile phone operation
• Text-to-Speech voice guidance with Australian voices audibly announce street names
• Fingertip touch-screen interface
• Look up addresses and points of interest
• Choose 2D or 3D map perspective
• Upload custom POIs, including alerts for speed zones and safety cameras
• Built in Travel Kit includes MP3 player with sample MPs, audio books, JPEG picture viewer, world clock, currency and measurement converters, calculator and more
• Add optional software such as Travel and Language Guides to personalize nüvi
• SD memory card expansion slot
• USB interface for loading data

A copy of his comments is posted here for future reference:

A degree of reality has to be reached where CORRECT information is disseminated through the Forum or, if this can’t be controlled, then the correct information should be placed in a readily accessed area of the forum as a public service, not just for the use of members but so that casual browsers can be correctly informed as well. This definitive information is critically important to the overall well being and reputation of the caravan fraternity, particularly when the safety of all road users is involved.

Briefly, the use of a correct load levelling device is, in most instances, NOT left to the personal choice of the owner. The vast majority of vehicles used to tow caravans, [and other trailers], in Australia are specifically required to be fitted with such a device when towing, not just when towing a large caravan or at the option of the owner, but when towing a trailer – period. It would take many pages of documentation to define all models and all specifics but in general the popular towing vehicles that MUST be fitted with such a device when towing include the following

Toyota – most models including all popular towing units.
Holden – most models including all popular towing units.
Mitsubishi – most models including all popular towing units. Pajero when the towed load exceeds 1350kg.
Ford ‘F’ Trucks – all models.
Mazda – most models including all popular towing units.
Jeep – most models including all popular towing units.
Suburu – most popular towing models.
Korean 4WD’s – most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.
European 4WD’s – most towing capable models are required to use a load levelling device.

Popular towing Vehicles that are not specifically required to be fitted with load leveling devices but to which serious consideration should be given to fitting such a device include:

Ford – in most instances requirements are not specifically stated, refer to owner’s handbook or owner’s choice. Some Ford models have speed limits relative to towed weight and other more specific requirements.

Nissan – in most instances requirement is not specifically stated, refer to owner’s hand book or owner’s choice. Some Nissan models have a variable ball weight allowance relative to the vehicle load.

There are many others of course but I thought that listing these particular units covered a reasonable range of popular towing units.

An important point to remember is that these requirements apply to all towing, whether it be a caravan, camper trailer, boat trailer, large box trailer or horse float.

Anyone who wants to obtain definitive information regarding their specific vehicle should :

1. Read the fine details in the owner’s hand book.
2. Contact the Engineering section of the vehicle manufacturer and request specifically defined advice regarding the vehicle in question. In general it is a waste of time talking to a dealer or a salesperson in a dealership, they usually either don’t know or don’t care. [The same thing often applies in many caravan dealerships.]
3. Contact a member of the R.V.M.A.A. or a member of a State Caravan Trades Associations [eastern states], and request the relevant information from the Towing Mass Guide which should have been supplied to those members. This guide is usually up-dated bi-annually and is for in house use but it can be used as an information source for owners or buyers of caravans. The N.R.M.A., the R.A.C.Q. and similar bodies may also be able to help.

After being involved in the Caravan Industry for over thirty years, both as a Repairer and a Designer/Manufacturer, it is my personal opinion that anyone who uses a van of any size without the appropriate load leveling device installed is a fool and a danger both to himself and to other road users. I make this comment with total regard to the opinions that many owners have of their personal abilities when towing. No one can foretell the unforeseen, and it is the unforeseen that will bite these fools on the backside when the worst case scenario takes place.

The overall state of accurate knowledge supplied by, and for the R/V Industry is usually poor to say the least. Some of the set ups on some of the rigs that call in to our establishment for service or repair are frightening to behold. Frankly, for example, the concept of a lightweight towing vehicle with a towing allowance of 3000kg of pull and 300kg on the towball being used to tow a van of this size without a weight distributing device terrifies me. Braking must be compromised, handling must be compromised and driving comfort must be at a minimum.

Get with the programme guys.

Regards,

BarryD
Cabcar
www.caravanrepair.com.au

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1. Even before buying the material keep chanting “Measure twice, cut once”
2. The Loo Raiser is made from a 600 x 900 piece of 19 mm outdoor ply.
3. The critical measurements are:
   1. length of storage space into which the support will fit (54 cm)
   2. max diagonal across base (44 cm)
   3. amount of lift required (200 – 250 mm)
   4. max width of support board (320 mm)
4. 3 a) less 3 b) left 50 mm / 2″ each end – a good hunk of meat left behind.
5. Board height (900 mm) less 3 d) divided by two said each of the base boards could be up to 290 mm high, again 50 mm to ‘cup’ the loo to save it sliding forward or back or sideways.

Next cut the sheet of ply into 1 of 600 x 320 and 2 of 600 x 290, and then trim these to 2 of 540 x 290.

Carefully measuring the middle of each, mark where the notches will be, allow for the fact that the board will not be crossing at right angles but more at 120 / 60 degrees and use a set square to mark the channel 20 mm wide (remember board is 19 mm thick). Cut the notches with the jigsaw base slightly rotated to give the required angle.

Then measure the size of the trough to be cut into the top of each board to keep it snug so that the loo won’t slide.

If you cut the base board over size you can cut locator notches into each corner. These can be cut freehand with the jigsaw. It worked perfectly first time.

Before taking it all apart (and save trouble re-assembling it) mark a large letter “A” on the three surfaces that need to go together.

Stain it with some decking oil to preserve the wood and hide any mud or dirt. The finishing touch could be some rubber feet in case the ground isn’t smooth or level.

The off cut from the base board will make a great jack plate for soft ground.

On the MSN Groups Caravanforum there have been a number of posts. Relevant images and details follow.

Aerial Mast

In order to raise and lower the aerial consider using an extending swimming pool pole, but make sure that it has an external collet locking mechanism. The outer part of the pole is attached to the van, and the inner part is then raised to hold the aerial. An 8 foot to 16 foot pole is around $50 from a Bunnings Warehouse.

You may need to modify the pole so that you can attach the aerial as the “fitting”. The end which usually goes down into the swimming pool is the bit which goes up in the air with the aerial attached.

Check out the images below.

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Aerial

A Digimatch Explorer aerial which is available from Dick Smiths Electronics or Jaycar is suitable for all areas of Australia. This aerial is around $70.

LT3172 – Digimatch VHF/UHF Economy 7 Element Receives Band 3, 4, and 5 (ch 6-12 and 28-69)

Features:

• Perfect for Caravans or space-conscious metropolitan areas
• Designed to enable positions in all horizontal, vertical or horiz/vert. polarities
• Suitable for all transmitters across Australia
• High Performance
• Heavy Duty construction
• Stainless Steel connection screws
• Black UV resistant plastics
• Boom length: 720mm
• Max. width: 880mm
• Supplied in stout, compact cardboard packaging
• Powder coated boom (blue)

Aerial Amplifer

Couple the above aerial with a Kingray Amp MHW34GLV U/V S&S 12volt DC injector aerial amplifier and you will have the best caravan TV setup available and at a much cheaper cost than many others.

These posts were written by Brian from Cabooluture Caravan Repairs in Queensland.

Hi.

The on-going solar panel question!!  So many answers with so little substance from so many ‘experts’!!

Before you do anything at all you must work out what your average daily use will be.  Don’t forget to count the things you don’t see such as range hood fans, pumps, inverters, and other toys that run off the house batteries. Work out your total amps used per day.

The safest formula to use when working out possible power availability from the sun for a lay flat array is to divide the total watts of the array by 19 and multiply the result by 5.2.  This will give a reasonably accurate indication of the expected amperage produced over each 24 hour period from the solar array.  This may not be kosher as far as the pundits are concerned but it is more relevent for the Australian condition.

Two 130 watt Kyoceras will give good service and look after two batteries if you are not using more than you can put in from the sun. Make sure you fit a suitable regulator, and it is usually a good idea to put a regulator into the system that will carry at least one additional panel if you need to up-grade later. [saves replacing the regulator with the up-grade.]  Make sure you choose quality panels and stay clear of cheap and second grade panels, plenty of them out there and they are not discounted according to their quality. Kyocera is top of the  quality pile at the moment.

It is very good advice not to screw any panels to the roof of your van.  Make up the support frames and attach the panels.  Fit the assembled rig to the roof and use Seal and Flex polyurethane to attach the feet of the mount rails to the roof.  Leave for two or three days before you move the van or dissasemble the panels for completion.

Why?  Because glass and aluminium expand at a different rate and the fixings will eventually become loose.  Fix the panel to the roof with screws or rivets at each end of the panel and you will have a free leak in the van within a fairly short period of time. If you don’t trust the polyurethane it is O.K to put one stainless screw or a peel rivet at the forward end of the frames for security but leave it at that.  We love installers who rigidly fix the panels, leak repairs are profitable and very necessary. 

If you decide to make portable panels please make sure you fit a closed eye bolt firmly to the frame and chain the array to something solid.  They are a very negotiable commodity and a little too portable. 

If you are anywhere near us you are welcome to call in and I will assist to work out your real power needs.

Best regards

BarryD

Barry followed this up with the following post

Roof mounted panel systems are as portable as you want them to be.  When the van is sold you will leave the mounting brackets and the wiring in place and remove the hardware.  We often see vans come in for service or repair with the legacy of a removed system still in place, it is not really of any concern to anyone.  It leaves the option open for a buyer to fit panels again later should they wish to.

My question is why the hell you would trade a van in and depreciate the value you will get for it in real terms.  It may be more sensible to leave a solar installation on a van, sell the van yourself and charge the value of the system into the sale.  That gives you the option of buying new, more developed panels and regulatior for your new van for which you will be able to negotiate the price, being a cash buyer.  These technical things change generationally and are soon out of date, so it makes good sense to start afresh with a new van.

Regards

BarryD

The Uniden GNS 8350 combines the latest in GPS technology with Sophisticated Intuitive Technology.

The GNS 8350 is stylish and powerful. It even has an in-built Early Warning Safety System to alert you of fixed speed cameras, red light cameras and black spots therefore providing a high level of nationwide protection for loved ones and your license. Featuring the latest SIRF III GPS Chipset for powerful and fast performance, the new GNS 8350 delivers nationwide coverage of all streets, suburbs and points of interest, giving voice and visual guidance to any destination. It comes pre-programmed with over a million points of interest including restaurants, banks and post offices. Users can also store their own destinations.

The GNS 8350 is so powerful yet so simple to use. Whether you are travelling for work or enjoying a short or long drive to a new destination, the GNS 8350 will guide you there using the quickest route available with its Dynamic Voice and Visual Guidance System. Its Intuitive Technology makes it so simple to use, allowing you to plug it in, enter your destination and just drive… letting the GNS 8350 do the rest. The screen is non-reflective, removing glare for crystal clear viewing. It can also be switched to night mode for easy, glare-free viewing after dark and also comes with eight other viewing options. With superior Mapping Data it provides nationwide coverage using Sensis Whereis Map Data. Featuring a SD Card slot extra memory can be added to the unit and is great for the multi-media function that allows you to play your videos and music. Digital photos can also be viewed from an SD memory card.

When it comes to portable GPS Car Navigation Systems the Uniden GNS 8350 is in a class of its own. It makes your trips safer and faster while giving you peace of mind that you will reach your destination on time, every time.

The specifications for the camera, as sourced from the Canon web site are:

Versatility, superior technology and creativity for value seeking photographers.

• 7.1 Megapixels
• 6x Optical zoom
• Optical Image Stabilizer
• 2.5″ LCD Screen
• DiG!C II

Combining an impressive Canon 6x optical zoom lens with Optical Image Stabiliser, a huge 2.5 inch LCD screen and a comprehensive range of versatile shooting modes the 7.1MP PowerShot A710IS is the perfect digital camera for any occasion. Offering point and shoot simplicity, or full manual control and also featuring Canon’s superb DiG!C II processor, the PowerShot A710IS delivers fast performance and industry leading image quality.

CANON’S FORMULA FOR AMAZING DIGITAL PHOTOS

• 7.1 Megapixel PowerShot A710IS delivers photo quality prints up to A3 size.
• Canon 6x optical zoom lens with 1cm macro functionality
• Optical Image Stabiliser for crisp shots even at high zoom.
• Canon’s superb DiG!C II image processor delivers perfect pixels.

EXPLORE DIGITAL PHOTOGRAPHY

• A comprehensive range of shooting modes, from complete control to full auto, including pre-set scene modes customised for Night Snapshot, Kids & Pets, Indoor, Foliage, Snow, Beach, Fireworks, Colour Accent and Colour Swap.
• My Colours modes including Vivid, Neutral, Sepia, Black & White, Positive Film, Lighter Skin Tone, Darker Skin Tone, Custom Colour allow users to customise colour preferences while shooting.
• Selectable 9 point AiAF, and 1 point AF for precise focusing in any shooting conditions.
• 8 position white balance and Intelligent Orientation Sensor for precise white balance calculation.
• Selectable sensitivity from ISO 80/100/200/400/800 – like having different ISO film loaded at once.
• Selectable Evaluative, Centre-weighted average and Spot (centre-point) metering for optimum exposure settings.

ADVANCED FEATURES, EASY OPERATION

• High quality continuous movie recording and playback with sound for up to 1GB or 1hour.
• Safety zoom makes optimum use of digital zoom with picture quality assurance.
• 3:2 aspect ratio guide for assistance in framing the perfect picture.
• Digital Tele-converter allows the digital equivalent of having a tele-converter attached

Whilst the RRP of the camera was $549.00 we negotiated a price of $459.00 from Harvey Norman. We also bought a 2Gb Card for $99.00 (RRP $169.99). We hope to purchase a tele-photo and fish-eye lens to complement our new camera. We are looking forward to putting it through its paces at some local lookouts and when we next go away.

Options Considered

These were the three options considered:

• Roof Mounted – what would have been considered the standard about 15-20 years ago.
• Window Mounted – modify either the front or rear main window to fit an air-conditioner.
• Split System – an air-conditioner comprising of an internal and external unit.

Pros & Cons

The roof mounted air-conditioner was rejected almost immediately due to the prohibitive cost ($2,500 upwards) and the additional weight that would need to be lifted when lifting the pop top.

The window mounted air-conditioner was the next option rejected, purely due to the bulkiness of the unit and the major modifications needed to fit the air-conditioner into either the front or rear window.

This then left the split system as the only realistic option. Cunningham’s Warehouse (SA) and Dimmeys (Vic) have regular “specials” for small split system air-conditioners from $399 upwards.

A little ingenuity in fitting the components is required. Once this has been completed, call in a refrigeration electrician to connect the electrics and gas the air-conditioner and for less than $1,000 you can have a good performing air-conditioner in an older caravan.

Photo Gallery

The following images of installations of split system air-conditioners were sourced from the MSN Groups Caravanners Forum.

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